Plumber Engadine

When a burst pipe floods the laundry at 2am or a drain blockage backs up into the shower during dinner prep, you need someone who can respond now, not "first thing Monday." We operate 24/7 for genuine emergencies, urgent jobs are sent out first, and the nearest available plumber is allocated from our dispatch points across Sydney. That means you get an ETA when you book, and we keep you updated if traffic or job timing shifts the arrival window.

For non-urgent work (a dripping tap, a hot water service nearing replacement, or a planned bathroom renovation), same-day service is available when you book early in the day. We confirm the appointment window, arrive in uniform, and explain what we're doing before starting. The assessment covers the affected area, existing pipework, and access requirements, so the fixed quote reflects the actual job, not a guess over the phone.

Our licensing covers plumbing, drainage, and gas fitting in NSW (Licence 305428C), and we carry current Public Liability and Workers Compensation insurance. What that means for you: if accidental property damage occurs during work, Public Liability provides protection; Workers Compensation covers workplace injury scenarios. All workmanship is backed by our Lifetime Labour Warranty, so if a repair fails due to how we completed it, we return and make it right at no additional charge. Manufacturer warranties on parts and appliances are provided separately and explained upfront.

Proper maintenance and timely repairs reduce the chance of expensive emergency call-outs later. A slow drain today can become a full blockage next week. A water heater showing rust-coloured water in the mornings is signalling that the sacrificial anode has corroded, and the tank may fail soon. We explain what we see, what's likely to happen if left unattended, and what your options are, then you decide. No pressure, just clarity.

If the situation involves safety risk (a gas smell, an active water leak damaging property, or electrical hazards near water), we can provide brief safety-first guidance by phone while the plumber is on the way: isolate the water supply at the meter if accessible, open windows if gas is suspected, and move valuables away from the leak. We don't coach diagnosis or DIY repairs, because misidentifying the fault or using the wrong tool can make things worse and void warranties.

When a toilet won't flush, keeps running, or leaks at the base, the bathroom becomes unusable and stress levels rise fast. Toilet faults typically trace back to a failed flapper valve (allowing water to continuously drain into the bowl), a faulty fill valve (preventing the cistern from refilling), a cracked cistern or pan (leaking water onto the floor), or a blocked trap (preventing waste from clearing).

On arrival, we check the cistern internals first: the flapper, fill valve, and overflow pipe height. If the fault is internal and parts are available, we replace the failed component and test the flush cycle to confirm it refills correctly and stops when full. If the pan or cistern is cracked, replacement is usually the only permanent solution, because cracks in vitreous china rarely seal reliably and can worsen over time.

For blockages, we assess whether the obstruction is in the toilet trap (often cleared with a closet auger) or further down the sewer line (requiring drain access and possibly a CCTV inspection if the blockage recurs). In properties with older clay sewer pipes, tree root intrusion is a common culprit, and we explain the options for clearing and preventing future blockages once we've located the restriction.

Engadine homes built in the 1960s and 70s often have original toilets with higher flush volumes (11 litres per flush) compared to modern dual-flush units (3/6 litres). If you're replacing an old toilet, we can recommend water-efficient models that meet current WELS (Water Efficiency Labelling and Standards) ratings and reduce ongoing water costs. Installation includes sealing the new pan to the floor, connecting the cistern, and testing for leaks prior to leaving.

Hot water failures in Engadine homes typically show up as no hot water at all, lukewarm water that never reaches full temperature, rust-coloured water in the mornings, or unusual noises (popping, hissing) from the tank. These symptoms usually trace back to a failed heating element (electric systems), a faulty gas burner or pilot light (gas systems), a corroded sacrificial anode (allowing the tank to rust from the inside), or sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank (insulating the heat source and reducing efficiency).

On first inspection, we check the system type (electric storage, gas storage, or continuous flow), the installation date (often stamped on the compliance plate), and the current fault symptoms. For electric systems, we test the heating elements and thermostat. For gas systems, we check the pilot light, gas supply pressure, and burner operation. If the tank itself is leaking or showing significant corrosion, replacement is usually the only safe option, because a compromised tank can fail suddenly and flood the area.

We install and service all major brands including Rheem, Dux, Rinnai, Bosch, and Aquamax. When replacement is needed, we explain the options: electric storage (lower upfront cost, higher running cost), continuous flow gas (space-saving, energy-efficient, endless supply), or heat pump systems (higher upfront cost, much lower running cost in suitable climates). The choice depends on your household size, existing infrastructure (gas connection, electrical capacity, roof space for solar), and budget.

All hot water installations in NSW must meet AS/NZS 3500 plumbing standards and include a Tempering Valve (limiting tap temperature to 50°C to prevent scalding) and a Pressure Relief Valve (preventing tank over-pressurisation). We issue a compliance certificate on completion, which is required for insurance claims and building records. Manufacturer warranties on new units (typically 5-10 years on the tank, 1-2 years on components) are explained at the time of installation, and our Lifetime Labour Warranty covers the installation workmanship.

A burst pipe is a plumbing emergency that demands immediate action. Water damage spreads fast, affecting floors, walls, ceilings, furniture, and electrical systems. The longer the leak runs, the worse the damage and the higher the repair bill. Burst pipes typically result from corrosion (especially in older galvanised steel or copper pipes), excessive water pressure, ground movement (shifting the pipe and stressing joints), or freezing (rare in Sydney but possible in uninsulated roof spaces during cold snaps).

If you discover an active broken pipe, the priority is stopping the water flow. Locate the water meter (usually at the front boundary) and turn the isolation valve to the off position. If the burst is in a specific section (e.g., under the kitchen sink), you may be able to isolate just that fixture using the local stop tap. Once the water is off, you can safely wait for the plumber to arrive without further damage. We dispatch immediately for broken pipe emergencies, and you'll receive an ETA when booking.

On arrival, we assess the damage location, the pipe material and age, and the cause of the failure. For a localised burst in an accessible section, we cut out the damaged segment and install a new section using the appropriate joining method (compression fittings for copper, solvent welding for PVC, push-fit connectors for PEX). For extensive corrosion or multiple weak points, we may recommend replacing the entire run to prevent repeat failures in adjacent sections.

In older Engadine homes with original galvanised steel pipes, corrosion is common after 40-50 years of service. The pipe corrodes from the inside out, reducing water pressure and eventually failing. If one section has burst, others are likely close behind. We explain the trade-offs: patching the immediate fault (quick and cheap but temporary) or replacing the affected pipe run with modern materials (more upfront cost but long-term reliability). You decide what makes sense for your situation and budget.

Pipe relining (also called trenchless pipe repair or "no-dig" technology) repairs damaged underground pipes without excavating the entire line. Instead of digging a trench from the house to the street, we access the pipe through existing inspection points, insert a flexible resin-saturated liner into the damaged section, inflate it to press against the pipe walls, and cure it in place using hot water or UV light. Once cured, the liner hardens into a seamless, structurally independent pipe-within-a-pipe.

Pipe relining is effective for repairing cracks, root intrusion points, joint separation, and corrosion in PVC, clay, cast iron, and concrete pipes, provided the pipe hasn't completely collapsed. It's particularly useful in situations where excavation would be expensive or disruptive: under driveways, through landscaped gardens, beneath concrete slabs, or in tight access areas where machinery can't operate.

The process begins with a CCTV drain CCTV inspection to confirm the pipe condition, locate the damage, and measure the section requiring relining. We then clear any blockages or debris using high-pressure jetting, because the liner needs a clean surface to bond correctly. The liner is inserted, inflated, and cured, typically completing the repair in a few hours. Once cured, we perform a final camera inspection to verify the liner is correctly positioned and sealed, then reinstate any access points and clean up.

Pipe relining costs more upfront than traditional pipe replacement, but it avoids excavation costs (digging, shoring, spoil removal), reinstatement costs (re-laying driveways, paths, landscaping), and the time and disruption involved in traditional repairs. For Engadine properties with established gardens, mature trees, or limited access, relining is often the most practical solution. The relined section is covered by our Lifetime Labour Warranty on workmanship, and the liner itself typically carries a 35-50 year manufacturer warranty.